So, first off, this thing is expensive and I personally think there are WAAAAAY too many self-congratulatory reviews on the internet for expensive products. Like everything else, this thing has pluses and minuses. If you want the short-but-sweet version: it works, it has some nice features, several drawbacks and I think it's too expensive to give it a sound recommendation.
Positives:
Very small form factor
Stainless enclosure is nice
PID controller eliminates overshoot (but is of questionable utility)
Flame rectifier
Works for natural gas or propane setups
Negatives:
PID seems unstable
PC software is clunky, poor user interface, and only runs on Windows
Communications cable is overpriced
Programming your own mash steps is tricky
PID controller has insufficient documentation
Installation not straightforward
Some additional information that I've gathered and think is useful:
The PID they're using appears to be the venerable Love Series 16B. At least they appear similar in appearance and they're also using the same software! The "TOP-Link" software has the same appearance/look/feel of the "Love-Link" software from Love Controls. This is very disappointing to me because this software is a stinker, only runs on Windows and has a craptacular UI.
I'm reasonably confident that they're also using this Fenwal 120v ignition module (or a similar product from the same manufacturer), and here's an appropriate electrode.
I'm not saying this whole thing is a piece of cake, but I do think it's overpriced but by how much is hard to say. The PID is about $90, the ignition module is about $200, and the electrode is between $20 and $50. So that's at least $350 before you add wiring, a case, a solenoid valve, etc. It retails for about $575, so I guess it's a matter of how much you like doing this stuff and how much it's worth to you.
Showing posts with label homebrewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label homebrewing. Show all posts
Tuesday, June 25, 2013
Wednesday, June 19, 2013
New Orleans municipal water analysis for homebrewers
I tried googling for this, to no avail. If you're interested in the New Orleans water supply for homebrewing, here it is (links to PDF).
The commentary from the scientist that passed it along follows:
The commentary from the scientist that passed it along follows:
The hardness and alkalinity vary as our source water (MS River) varies. Currently, the total hardness of the tap water on the east bank is about 150 mg/L as CaCO3 and the alkalinity is about 120 mg/L as CaCO3. Typical chloramine levels uptown are 2.5 - 3.5 mg/L; typical free chlorine levels are <0.2 mg/L.
Monday, December 31, 2012
Brew Year's Resolutions
Resolutions for 2013:
Rosemary/Brett saison
Delicious IPA
Decide what to make for my 1000th gallon of homebrew
Set up a thermostat for the HLT without breaking the bank
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Noisy ASCO valves
Is anyone else experiencing this? I'm a little concerned something may be wrong.
Thanks.
Thursday, January 12, 2012
Quick review: Bazooka Screens and their ilk
Recently purchased this. Short version is that it works, but it gets clogged when using it in the boiler. I have not tried it in the mash tun.
Long version is that for beers with highly-converted malts and low/no adjuncts and (probably leaf hops) it performs well. For adjuncts, less converted malts, and pellet hops, it has to constantly be scraped off with a spoon or paddle.
Previously, I just ran from a 1/2" NPT nipple to a 90 degree elbow in the pot and just used a stainless scrubber/sponge stuck on the nipple to strain. This is cheaper, but can still clog.
I remain unsure of the proper answer. I really don't want to spend the time and energy and (lotsa) money to setup some kind of whirlpool. However, when the kettle gets stuck and the wort is coming out of the counter-flow slowly life sucks.
Anybody have a cheap and easy setup that works?
Long version is that for beers with highly-converted malts and low/no adjuncts and (probably leaf hops) it performs well. For adjuncts, less converted malts, and pellet hops, it has to constantly be scraped off with a spoon or paddle.
Previously, I just ran from a 1/2" NPT nipple to a 90 degree elbow in the pot and just used a stainless scrubber/sponge stuck on the nipple to strain. This is cheaper, but can still clog.
I remain unsure of the proper answer. I really don't want to spend the time and energy and (lotsa) money to setup some kind of whirlpool. However, when the kettle gets stuck and the wort is coming out of the counter-flow slowly life sucks.
Anybody have a cheap and easy setup that works?
Monday, January 2, 2012
Recipe review: Trappist Crappist
I based this off of a reciped found here. With the exception of software screwups (I usually brew 10 gallon batches and wasn't paying attention to the volumes I was being handed...)
Tasting notes will follow.
Batch 1 of Trappist Crappist
| Dates |
| Date Brewed: | 1 Jan 2012 | Date Racked: | 1 Jan 2012 |
| Date Packaged: | 1 Jan 2012 | Date Ready: | 1 Jan 2012 |
| Selected Style and BJCP Guidelines |
| Minimum OG: | 1.062 SG | Maximum OG: | 1.075 SG |
| Minimum FG: | 1.008 SG | Maximum FG: | 1.018 SG |
| Minimum IBU: | 15 IBU | Maximum IBU: | 25 IBU |
| Minimum Color: | 10.0 SRM | Maximum Color: | 17.0 SRM |
| Recipe Overview |
| Target Wort Volume Before Boil: | 24.30 qts | Actual Wort Volume Before Boil: | 24.30 qts |
| Target Wort Volume After Boil: | 21.13 qts | Actual Wort Volume After Boil: | 21.13 qts |
| Target Volume Transferred: | 21.13 qts | Actual Volume Transferred: | 21.13 qts |
| Target Volume At Pitching: | 21.13 qts | Actual Volume At Pitching: | 21.13 qts |
| Target Volume Of Finished Beer: | 20.08 qts | Actual Volume Of Finished Beer: | 20.08 qts |
| Target Pre-Boil Gravity: | 1.064 SG | Actual Pre-Boil Gravity: | -No Record- |
| Target OG: | 1.074 SG | Actual OG: | -No Record- |
| Target FG: | 1.010 SG | Actual FG: | -No Record- |
| Target Apparent Attenuation:: | 85.5 % | Actual Apparent Attenuation: | 0.0 % |
| Target ABV: | 8.5 % | Actual ABV: | 0.0 % |
| Target ABW: | 6.7 % | Actual ABW: | 0.0 % |
| Target IBU (using Tinseth): | 19.0 IBU | Actual IBU: | 33.9 IBU |
| Target Color (using Morey): | 37.8 SRM | Actual Color: | 37.8 SRM |
| Target Mash Efficiency: | 65.0 % | Actual Mash Efficiency: | 0.0 % |
| Target Fermentation Temp: | 64 degF | Actual Fermentation Temp: | 64 degF |
| Fermentables |
| Ingredient | Amount | % | MCU | When |
| US Pilsen Malt | 12.00 lb | 73.8 % | 2.3 | In Mash/Steeped |
| German CaraMunich I | 2.00 lb | 12.3 % | 13.2 | In Mash/Steeped |
| Sugar - Candi Sugar Dark | 1.00 lb | 6.2 % | 52.1 | In Mash/Steeped |
| Belgian Special B | 1.00 lb | 6.2 % | 27.8 | In Mash/Steeped |
| German Carafa I | 0.25 lb | 1.5 % | 15.9 | In Mash/Steeped |
| Hops |
| Variety | Alpha | Amount | IBU | Form | When |
| Slovenian Styrian Goldings | 4.5 % | 1.00 oz | 12.9 | Bagged Pellet Hops | 60 Min From End |
| German Hallertauer Hersbrucker | 3.5 % | 1.00 oz | 6.1 | Bagged Pellet Hops | 20 Min From End |
| Other Ingredients |
| Ingredient | Amount | When |
| Yeast |
| Water Profile |
| Target Profile: | No Water Profile Chosen |
| Mash pH: | 5.2 |
| pH Adjusted with: | Unadjusted |
| Total Calcium (ppm): | 0 | Total Magnesium (ppm): | 0 |
| Total Sodium (ppm): | 0 | Total Sulfate (ppm): | 0 |
| Total Chloride(ppm): | 0 | Total Bicarbonate (ppm): | 0 |
| Mash Schedule |
| Mash Type: | Full Mash |
| Schedule Name: | CAP (50-66C/122-149F) |
| Step Type | Temperature | Duration |
| Rest at | 122 degF | 15 |
| Raise by infusion to | 151 degF | 1 |
| Rest at | 151 degF | 60 |
| Mash Notes |
| Boil Notes |
| Fermentation Notes |
| Packaging Notes |
| Tasting Notes |
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